Article: How to Crack a Designer Size Chart
How to Crack a Designer Size Chart
A designer size label lies to you a little. “IT 48” isn’t a universal medium — it’s an Italian number that began life as a chest measurement, and every house bends it to suit the body it designs for. A 48 in Dolce & Gabbana and a 48 in Armani can sit a full size apart on your back.
Here’s how to read past the label.
First, ignore the letter. Use the number.
S, M and L are marketing. The number is closer to the truth, because on most European designer clothing it’s tied to your chest (men) or your French/EU size (women). Learn the two tables below once and you can decode almost any Italian or French brand.
Men — chest to size
| Your chest | IT / EU | US | Rough letter |
|---|---|---|---|
| 86–89 cm (34–35") | 44 | 34 | XS |
| 91–94 cm (36–37") | 46 | 36 | S |
| 96–99 cm (38–39") | 48 | 38 | S–M |
| 99–104 cm (39–41") | 50 | 40 | M |
| 104–110 cm (41–43") | 52 | 42 | L |
| 110–115 cm (43–45") | 54 | 44 | L–XL |
| 115–120 cm (45–47") | 56 | 46 | XL |
Measure around the fullest part of your chest, arms down. Between two sizes? The bigger number gives room; the smaller gives a sharper fit.
Women — the number maze
Italian, French and EU all label the same body with different numbers. The shortcut: French = EU − 4. So EU 40 = FR 36 = IT 40 = US 4 = UK 8.
| IT | FR | EU | US | UK | Letter |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 38 | 34 | 38 | 2 | 6 | XS–S |
| 40 | 36 | 40 | 4 | 8 | S |
| 42 | 38 | 42 | 6 | 10 | S–M |
| 44 | 40 | 44 | 8 | 12 | M |
| 46 | 42 | 46 | 10 | 14 | M–L |
| 48 | 44 | 48 | 12 | 16 | L |
Then adjust for the house.
Two pieces in the same number still won’t fit the same, because some houses cut for a slim fashion body and some don’t. Here’s how the brands we carry actually run.
Size up — these run small or slim
- Dolce & Gabbana — narrow sleeves, tight through the torso. Size up, especially in tailoring.
- Saint Laurent — cut for a very slim, rock-and-roll frame. Short and tight; size up unless you’re slight.
- Dsquared2 — the smallest of the bunch. Plenty of people go up one, sometimes two.
- Roberto Cavalli — body-conscious, fitted at the waist.
- Versace and Emporio Armani — only slightly slim, but size up if you’re between sizes or broad in the shoulder.
True to size — take your usual number
- Giorgio Armani — classic tailoring, cut a touch relaxed.
- Prada — clean and modern, a few volume pieces aside.
- Gucci — true, occasionally slim; varies by collection.
- Moschino — regular fits are true, tailored pieces a little snug.
- Karl Lagerfeld and Michael Kors — true, sometimes even a little generous.
- Burberry — depends on the named cut: “classic” is true to size, “slim” runs small.
Size down — this one runs big
- Balenciaga — built oversized on purpose, especially hoodies and outerwear. Take your size for the intended look, or drop one if you want it less dramatic.
When in doubt, trust the tape, not the tag.
A garment’s real measurements never lie; the number on the label sometimes does. It’s why we list measurements on the pieces we sell and tell you how each one runs — so you’re buying to your body, not to a number that means something different at every house.
— SIGNVM
